Is the 4.9 volts too low for apple products?Īre the Transistors supposed to put out and actual 5 volts or is 4. I am happy that my phone charges from the USB ports but sort of bummed that the Iphone will not. If I plug a premade 12 volt to USB into one of my new 12 volt outlets the Iphone will charge, the output voltage on that USB outlet is 5.1 volts. The output power on the USB ports is 4.9 volts. If I try to charge and Iphone it will not charge, it does not recognize it is connected to a power source. When I plug in my Samsung Note 3 phone to charge using any of the USB ports it charges fine. Have the capacitor going from the 0 volt to the +5 volt coming out of the Transistor. I had the correct resistors on hand for the LED's, for the 12 volt outlet LED's 470 Ohms, for the 5 volt LED's 82 Ohms, for each LED. I bought the components that I did not have on hand from Digi-Key, (2) LT1084CT-5#PBF-ND transistors, (2) P5139-ND capacitors, and (4) C4SMF-BJS-CROU452-ND LED's. Each individual circuit has an LED after the fuse so I know if the fuse blows. Each 12 volt outlet is fused and the USB outlets are fused as 2 pair, so I have 4 fuses total. What I made has 2 12 volt sockets and a 4 slot USB outlet bank off of a CPU board. I built this circuit for my truck, it only has 1, 12 volt outlet. They are nice because of their screw terminals. Of course, you can also use an existing 12v-5v converter in your car, be it light duty, medium, or heavy duty or use these nice power adaptor that are meant to be integrated into other projects or this beefier waterproof, super high power alternative with a heatsink. Also, if you really want to protect your circuit badly, just put one on both sides. So, if you want 1.5 amps for your USB ports, then you select a 0.6amp fuse, if you want 2.5 amps at 5v, you select a 1 amp fuse, if you want 3.75 amps, you select a 1.5 amp fuse, etc.). Because we put the fuse on the 12v side, (which can vary from 11.5-12.5 volts, we have to use a value 2.5x smaller than what we want on our USB side. More information on the fuse: you can use a higher rated one if you use a different transistor that can take higher amperage. If you have a strange LED or want to make it brighter, please use this resistor calculator. Any LED will do, here are the values for the most common LEDs : 1.2v = 220ohm, 1.6v = 180ohm, 2v = 180 ohm, 2.2v = 150ohm. if you choose to add an LED, you need an LED and an appropriate resistor for 5V.Header boardsare a great and easy way to do this. For higher amps (many devices at once), use a TO220 ( and a bigger fuse) a L7805CV voltage regulator for lower amps.2 different colors of wire (so that you don't get confused later on).So, if anyone has any ideas as to where to begin to look for a solution to my problem, it would be greatly appreciated. Especially for someone like me who has so many uses for 12v (lights, mobile drone battery charging, cpap machine) but, doesn't want to be limited to large batteries or Portable chargers with the 12v barrel already in them. I think that if there isn't a cable or product that allows you to do so, developing one would be a great idea. The only thing I've seen is a small adapter on eBay that converts C to a barrel jack but, I've read that it will only put out 5v because of the way USB-C "detects" the device it is hooked up to and adjusts the voltage accordingly. I could probably get away with 10.5v or 11v.Īnyway, I've been looking high and low for a way to go from USB-C to 12V. Spec on the USB-C output says it will do 15V/2A. For Christmas, the wife got me a Ravpower Portable battery pack (Ravpower Super-C Series 26800) that has 2 USB ports and a USB-C port. Well, I'm tired of having to carry around large heavy batteries. Note: some Android devices may not charge at the fastest rate possible because of differences in charging circuitry. Long story short, I have some led strips that normally draw power from a car battery, or large AGM via battery clamps. First post, and I hope I'm in the right place.
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